All posts by Benj

Day 11: Charitocracy Day

Maurice woke me up this morning “quietly” getting ready to leave the room around 5:45am, so I just decided to get up, too. By 7am I had climbed to the top of Belvedere, the name of the observation tower at our resort. Moe was up there, too. But a sign enumerating the rules for the tower includes “Silence!” so I just nodded at him.

All along the watchtower

Mr. Belvedere

My hope was that I’d find a reliable cell signal up on the tower above the tree canopy. I was not disappointed. Full on 3G! Pages load in only 20 seconds! I knew I should be blogging about the 3 new July Charitocracy nominees, but when I set out to start that, I realized I still needed to blog about the June winner. 4 blog posts to do, and 4 days before the July Top 10 would be selected, the same day I fly home. So I had my work cut out for me! [Future Benj says: “You failed to mention to readers who don’t know you, Benj of yore, that you and Jessica run a nonprofit where donors pool their small donations and vote on the best charity to win it all each month. As little as $13/year to join in the fun!”]

Plugging Charitocracy

In between our two excursions today I banged out all 4 blog posts. What usually takes me 20 minutes to write each took an hour, since I was working with my iPad on a slow connection instead of my Mac on a fast one. But I got it done! June winner (Together We Rise, for those keeping score at home) posted to Charitocracy blog and cross-posted to Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn, and mailing list. Nominee posts for RAICES, Pan-Mass Challenge, and Mission 22 written and scheduled for the next 3 days. 😅

The excursions I was working around were canoeing and dolphin searching. The first was especially fun. Eric was back paddler and I front paddler for our canoe, dubbed Team America by our guide, who was paired with Moe. There was also a Team Germany, an older couple, and Team Brazil, two middle-aged vixens as Jessica would have called them. We were all racing around through the flooded jungle in our traditional Amazon river canoes and squat heavy wood paddles. (The water here is about 30m higher than it will be in October.) Eric and I were showing off by slaloming around obstacles at full speed.

Ready for canoeing
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Team USA
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

Team Brazil

Moe the teacher's pet and Team Germany

After we got off the canoes and back onto the speedboat that brought us and the canoes to this part of the river, we had the opportunity to swim for a while. Everyone except Team Germany partook. It started raining. It felt really great! The funniest part was each of us trying to climb (or be dragged) back up into the speed boat. It was not graceful.

Moe was no least graceful

All's well that ends well

The other excursion was a boat ride out across the archipelago in search of gray and pink dolphins. This would have been exciting on Day 1 in the Amazon. But on Day 11, we’ve seen these dolphins almost every day. It’s hard not to see them.

Pink river dolphin smiling

Another pink dolphin

I won’t even mention that I have dolphins in my back yard at home in OBX. (Oh, snap. I just did.) However, the highlight of this excursion was the boat ride back and forth. This was the first time I was taken on shortcuts across islands in a speed boat. The captain wasn’t particularly careful about it, either. We were banging into and bouncing off trees like it was jungle pinball. We barely fit, and we’re getting branches in our faces. But it was pretty cool, having only done this in slow kayaks and canoes previously.

Motorboat shortcut
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

Bird of prey

Wait for it...

Some critter is missing its ass end

At dinner there was a tarantula watching us eat from the interior edge of the thatched roof.

Tarantula decoration

Just chilling out, doing his thang. NBD. That’s pretty much the attitude of Amazon wildlife, and I can fully relate.

Day 12: Piranhas vs. Sloths

I was first one up today! I checked my watch and it was 5:30am, so I quietly removed myself and headed to the common room where coffee was already on. Moe followed around 6am, and one of our guides, Tony, chatted us up until close to 7am breakfast time.

Our dining room table changed each day, and this was our marker to find it.

Our after-breakfast excursion today was piranha fishing. I caught one early on, and since dehooking was probably equally traumatic for both parties of that transaction, I switched my goal to piranha feeding. In case you were wondering, they are indeed down there, they are plentiful, and they love nibbling meat. Nom nom nom. They’re also delicious, as I learned over a couple of meals on this trip. Fair is fair.

Here we go again!

I'm on a BOAT
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

Eric, you're doing it wrong.

Killer plants.  The usual.

This afternoon I cross-posted the next Charitocracy nominee, RAICES (free/cheap immigration attorneys), across social media. Then Eric, Moe and I played another game of Citadels. I came in 2nd again. I think Jessica and the kids will like this game, and I hear it’s better with 4+ players.

A little more Charitocracy work before play time
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

Eric bailed, but Moe and I hit a nearby village on the river for our afternoon excursion. We learned how they fish, hunt, and grow their food, and how they mill their crop into a variety of products like the tapioca used to make the pancake-like things we’ve had for breakfast so frequently on this trip. (For lack of better terminology I’ve called them blintzes in previous blog posts, but they are known as tapiocas.) These Amazon river locals have figured a few things out over the years! Including how to generate enough electricity for 3 hours of satellite TV each evening from 6pm – 9pm.

No, this never gets old.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Arriving at the village
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
The lay of the land
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

I can't help but think of Myst or Submachine

Who's inspecting whom?

Priorities

Manioc factory

Red hot

This guy mimicked a creepy human laugh.

Each village takes on an honorary World Cup team name

We visited their gift shop full of crafts they’ve made. I picked up a few items of jewelry for the fam. On the way back to the boat we spotted a baby sloth at eye-height in the bottom of a tree. It was sleeping, and probably the most adorable thing I’ve seen on this trip. Its momma was at the top of the same tree. She was probably coming full-speed down to intercept us from bothering her baby, but alas her movement was imperceptible. The baby woke up a couple times and I got a look at its cute face, but not sure I got a good photo of that because it was in the shadow. But it’s in my memory!

Cutest thing in the whole Amazon

It’s fast approaching dinner time, our last one here at Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge. I’m blogging now since we have an early 5am final excursion, a sunrise contemplation. Moe thinks I’ll be an early riser convert after this trip, but I’m less certain… [Future Benj says: “Nope!”]

Day 13: Contemplation

We all woke up around 4:30am to get ready for our “sunrise contemplation” excursion. I drank a couple of coffees while 9 of us going on this boat ride assembled, and then we motored off into the darkness. We reached a big lake about 30 minutes before sunrise, and just sat there and contemplated. There were thick clouds in the sky and fog on the lake. There would be no sunrise, so I made my own on my phone while the rest of the boat continued to contemplate.

Contemplate this sunrise

Back at the docks

Was that our last Amazon boat??

We had our last breakfast at Anavilhanas, and I chatted with a boy, maybe 12, from São Paulo who asked if I was a basketball fan after learning I’m from Boston. (Clearly he doesn’t know that in Boston we excel at all sports.) He’s a Houston Rockets fan. I should have invited him to Boston to reconsider his options. Cool kid, irregardless.

I skipped the morning hike excursion, my first bail, so I’d have enough free time to finally cross-stitch. I dragged it across continents, down rivers, and through jungles for 2 weeks. I wasn’t going to allow over-programming by our eco-resort to rob me of my hobby time. I spent two solid hours stitching some light blue around the fish in my scene. UNTIL I RAN OUT OF LIGHT BLUE!! This hasn’t happened to me ever, running out of a color. I must have lost a length of it at some point in my travels. In the 15 years I’ve been picking away at this project, I’ve probably been on light blue for 2+ years. There’s a strand of it on the armrest of a couch somewhere in the world. Note to self: hit Michaels and pick up some more Dimensions #17976! [Future Benj: I picked up the closest thing Michaels has. It’ll have to be close enough. Or I could pull out and redo the last 2 years worth of progress…]

Last lunch was delicious as always. Apple pie (Amazon deconstructed style) for dessert. And a cute little monkey watching from the trees next to our table. Something new every day! Sorry that this is our last.

Haven’t you always wanted a monkey?

Bye bye Anavilhanas
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

At 2pm we were picked up for the long bumpy road back to Manaus.

Mesmerizing swirl of vultures

By 4:30pm we were back at Tropical Manaus hotel. This place was really nice at some point maybe a decade or two ago.

None shall pass

It’s like a big old haunted palace. A ghost town. Creepy as shit.

where are the PEOPLE?
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
The Shining
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

But it has some nice Amazon river frontage.

This looks cool

Moe

Benj
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

Pano bomb

We missed opening hours for the adjacent zoo, but we’re kind of expecting more of a pet cemetery anyway. I guess we’ll find out tomorrow, since we have all day to kill before our red eye. But now to see if the one remaining restaurant at this resort actually opens at 7pm like they say…

Day 14: Future Benj Retrospects

Every other blog post was written in the moment, live on the ground. This last one is being written by me, Future Benj. Hindsight is not 20/20. Six weeks commit memory murder. I’ll do my best to piece these last few photos into a believable narrative. They’re from the zoo and the beach, so it shouldn’t be too hard! I seem to recognize the main characters. I’ll keep words to a minimum.

One thing you might not have noticed is that all the photos in this blog have a caption. You just need to hover your mouse cursor over them. If you don’t have a cursor, then use your finger to press down on the photo. Maybe the caption will pop up? It does on the Chrome app at least. Figure it out, and then reread the entire blog cover-to-cover to bring some new meaning into your life.

So this zoo adjacent to our hotel was created back in the 70s when this place must have been hopping with tourists from all corners of the globe.

Eric pretends to be fluent in Japanese

A lot of people have asked Future Benj, “Did you see any jaguars?” The answer has been, “Yes, on our final day!”

Caged jaguars don't count
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

There were lots of cool animals at this zoo, and they all seemed to be thriving. But you’ve been to the zoo before, right? You don’t need me to explain this to you. Animals in cages. But this last one’s my favorite.

Put your phone in selfie mode, then show it to monkey

After the zoo, we killed time by walking to Ponta Negra Beach. We hoped to find some delicious food options, but the beach vendors were all selling beer and candy. I guess if you’re in the right mood, that might be the perfect mix. But we headed back to the hotel and ate pizza at their one restaurant for the 3rd time. (This resort hotel used to have many!)

Remember, this awesome beach is on a RIVER

This music venue looks more like part of the Olympics

Maurice and I hit two geocaches near the airport, in what clearly appeared to be drug transactions to passing cars. I think we’d raise more eyebrows if it looked like anything else. We spent all afternoon and night at the airport just chilling out. There was nothing to do there. I got a sandwich and some sort of açaí drink. Eventually near midnight we went through security and boarded our night flight.

red eye
photo credit: Maurice Ribble

We dropped Eric off in Miami at much too early an hour, and proceeded on to Boston.

ouch, the sun hurts my red eyes

Now that we’re home safe and sound, here’s a collection of the Top 10 lessons from this trip, in case you want to skip the previous 14 blog posts. (I definitely recommend reclaiming that half hour of your life. You can still pretend you read it all.)

  1. Perils ordered from greatest to least: humans in cars, killer plants, chigger fleas, all other animals.
  2. It’s super easy to be a pescatarian in the Amazon.
  3. The water level is so high in the “wet season” that we’re basically kayaking through treetops.
  4. The pH of the river (at least in parts) is too low to support mosquito reproduction, making them a non-factor.
  5. Don’t go exploring without leaving virtual breadcrumbs and having some other Plan B.
  6. Despite everything you’ve been told, there are a few caves and waterfalls in the Amazon region.
  7. Despite being 2º south of the equator, the weather is no worse than a humid summer day in Boston.
  8. The concept of pink dolphins never gets old.
  9. Piranhas don’t eat you. You eat them.
  10. I don’t care how caught up in World Cup fever you are. Don’t play soccer barefoot on a sand pitch.

Until next adventure, Future Benj signing out.

Happy Fathers Day!

Harry and I are headed out on an adventure tonight. We’re excited!

For the last 3 years both Harry and Felicity have been going to overnight camp in Brevard, NC. Shout out to Gwynn Valley, a place we dearly love and will miss! But this year Felicity will be attending a dance intensive instead. So Harry asked if he could go camping with me rather than going alone to camp. Hell yeah!

We spun the globe and landed fingers on a place that was conveniently close, yet still dramatically remote: Greenland. And it turns out you can only get there via Iceland or Denmark. We’ve already enjoyed Denmark (other than Harry’s forehead vs. Tivoli Gardens gravity boat deck), so Iceland it is! And we may as well explore Iceland, too, while we’re there anyway…

The title of this post may seem addressed to myself. Getting off a plane and exploring a new place with my son will be the ultimate Father’s Day gift to myself. But the truth is, I’m addressing this post to my father, and dedicating this whole section of the blog to him. Dad was supposed to join us on this trip, but he suffered a freak Pickleball injury that sidelined him for the season. I wanted the trip to be his father’s day present, but instead a blog will have to do.

This blog is a combination of adventure trekking and photography, two things Dad instilled in me. (Was it nature or nurture? Do I have instinctual wanderlust, or did I learn it from watching him?)

Dad put a series of 35mm cameras with B&W film into my hands from a very young age. I learned the hard way such things as not swapping half-exposed rolls of film (gotta have the right ISO for this bright beach day!) in a “dark” corner of our station wagon. We developed film and made prints in his basement dark room. It was hours of intimate time spent together on weekends in the dark or dim red light. But first we needed to take the photos!

If you’ve seen a photo of me on a hike laden with camera body, multiple lenses, and tripod, just realize this is an extrapolation of my youth. With camera, canteen, and often binoculars strapped around my neck, Dad would take me hiking. He even dragged his large format camera (think old-timey with black curtain draped over the operator) around to get shots of landscapes or of me in the landscapes. We hiked to a place we called The Moon, which was the big water tank in Natick Town Forest. Great memories!!

Here’s to you, Dad. We’re thinking of you as we embark on this adventure, and hope you heal up before our next! 😘

Not used to the gravity

My style of leisure travel is to walk everywhere I can. I see more of the destination, get a better ground-level feel for the place, benefit from the exercise, and save $$. Boston, New York, San Francisco, London, Paris: all big cities where if there were a map of my cumulative walks over the years, they’d be painted red. Those maps would fail to capture the fact that I’d have my backpack and maybe even a roller board suitcase in tow.

I probably pulled this shit with Jessica a few times, politely tolerated at first during the honeymoon phase, before she ended it. Permanently. I want to say it was at the Copenhagen train station, walking a few blocks to our hotel with 2 young children and all our luggage. Fair enough I suppose.

Harry doesn’t know any better than to just go with it. (Or, gawd help him, he’s like me!) I’ll take that as the best ever father’s day present. We slept 2 hours max on our red eye flight to Keflavik Sunday morning, then stayed awake walking around town, no napping, until 10pm. On Monday after a 12 hour sleep, we hiked our luggage over to the domestic airport, Harry pushing his suitcase up the hills. When he stumbled, and I went back to check on him, he had a grin on his face. “I’m just not used to the gravity here yet.”

We’ll be back to Reykjavik in a week.  Onward!

Nuuk at Night

We arrived in our hostel cabin Monday afternoon to find we were not alone.  We expected at least some of the other 3 bedrooms to be occupied, but all of them were.  The fridge was stocked, common areas installed with personal items. Welcome to #HostelLife!

The Internet only works reliably when near the hostel’s café, which is closed Mondays. 😭 So I spent the afternoon on the cafe’s deck, swatting mosquitoes and breaking would-be café patrons the bad news. We saw a couple head into our cabin, so Harry ran down to greet them. Moments later, the couple was trying to reach the (closed) reception desk in the café.

They were a delightful Danish couple who had been booked into the hostel by a tour company, and had no idea it involved communal living. They thought they had the entire cabin (8 beds) all to themselves, and Harry must have burst that bubble big time. Better as they were just arriving back for the day, vs. during morning shower time! 🤣

We chatted for a while as they made other arrangements (no easy feat in a city with only one obvious hotel!), and reassured me that it was them, not us! “Have you ever heard of such a thing as staying with strangers?” They offered me a beer, and told me about the purpose of their visit: earlier that day they took a water taxi ride to the site of her helicopter pilot father’s tragic crash when she was 6, 46 years ago. She laid a flower and a lock of her curls over his water grave. By the end of our toasting to her dad, they had a hotel room waiting, and wished we would go stay with them there. Ha, and surrender this view?! We compromised, and gratefully shared their taxi into town, where we enjoyed our first of many meals at Café Esmeralda.

On our first “night” in Nuuk, with the whole cabin to ourselves now, we set up my camera on GorillaPod legs pointing out our cabin window. The sun had already set over the rocky hills around the hostel, out a side window of our cabin, but was still shining on the mountain tops.  Little did I know it would rise 3 hours later straight through the middle of my time lapse!

I wear my sunglasses at night.

Free Range

Since I learned to ride a bike, I had free range in my neighborhood. Before that, I was already spending a lot of time outside the house, poking around with my sister Maggie in the back yard swamp for hours on end. We walked ourselves to school from kindergarten through junior high.

Occasionally there would be our little neighbor, Mikey, running down the road to find grownups. “Ben has blood! BEN has BLOOD!” Mix wheels and steep roads and sand, or bare fingers and plate glass, or bike pedals and untied shoes, and accidents will happen. There will be blood.

By the age of 7 or 8 I was riding my bike along Rt. 16, past Memorial School to downtown South Natick: Olde Towne Market, church, the library, the waterfall. By the age of 10, now in Sterling, I was riding my bike everywhere. To the soccer fields, to my friend Wes’s house all the way across town, and eventually to work at Johnson’s Garage or the beach, hoping to run into friends there.

If there was any protocol to keep our parents informed, I’ve forgotten it. Eating at a friend’s house, or sleeping over, I’m sure demanded a phone call home. But at a young age, if I wasn’t spending an entire summer day in front of my computer at home, I was out on my own exploring my world, unaccounted for, until dinner.

This was a lot of set up for my main point: my kids do not have this. They don’t know what they’re missing, and we don’t know how this might handicap them later. The world is no more dangerous now. Seems it was already riddled with pedophiles needing help finding their lost dogs. We barely had seatbelts in the 70s. It feels like as parents we’re just holding on a lot tighter these days?

With this in mind, I’ve given Harry an extra measure of free range on this trip. Unintentionally at first!

On our first day in Reykjavik, we explored the city a bit, walked down to the waterfront, and then back up the hill and found a café.  I was working away on my laptop after we finished our croissants and hot beverages. Harry said, “I’ll meet you back at our hotel.” I distractedly said okay, sure, thinking I’d catch up to him right outside in a minute.

10 minutes went by, and I realized I should probably get out there and join him. I thought he’d probably be looking in the windows of shops on the street outside. No sign of him. I went to the corner, looked up and down both streets. Gone baby gone. I circled the block, starting to worry that I lost my son in a foreign country. Finally I gave up and left proximity of the café and walked to our hotel on a parallel street 3 blocks away.

Harry was sitting in the sun on the front steps, just people watching. My heart rate normalized. I nonchalantly asked him, “How’d you know your way back?” He said, “I was paying attention and keeping track of where we were.” Duh. Same as we did before cell phones.

Harry’s trophy
Harry returns from a solo mission with his fractional iceberg trophy.

So every time on this trip he asks, “Can I go climb on the rocks, or the icebergs, or the seals, or …?” the answer is, “Yes. Remember, we don’t know if there are hospitals in Greenland. Just make sure there’s at least a body I can bring home to your mother.” He respects that protocol. I think he’s right when he said, “I’ve grown up a lot over the last few days.” 

Me too. I’m still watching nearly his every free range movement from an invisible distance, and still checking for signs of breathing every morning when I wake up before him. But that’s on me.

“I’m taking the long way over the mountain. I’ll meet you back at the hostel, okay?” Feels like an eternity, but eventually Harry emerges into view…

Welcome to the Shitshow Roadshow!

No, you’ve come to the right place. This corner of Migratory Pebbles will chronicle the Lipchak/Sands 40 day road trip in a 25′ RV. Is it too many days, or too short an RV? Tune in here to find out which.

I’ll be joined by social media personalities Jessica, Felicity, and Harry of recent Greenland/Iceland blog fame.

Now study our intended route above to find out if the Shitshow Roadshow will be visiting a community near you!

My Triumphant Return

If all goes well, I’ll be on a plane to London end of next week. I’ll visit dear friends in Cornwall, do a short test hike along the South West Coast Path, visit London (West End and more dear friends), and head up to Yorkshire for yet more more dear friends and the main event: a 6-day, 26 pub, 76 mile, pub-to-pub loop hike through the Yorkshire Dales.

I included Jessica in the photo just because I know it’ll get me more readers. Maybe I can photoshop her into the entire trip? But sadly, she’ll not be joining me on this excursion. We’ve completely failed to synchronize our retirements, and she’s just too important to spare back home. Not to mention, she’s neither fond of beer nor climbing through dales. More for the rest of us?

In other news, here’s a test link to a random VR180 YouTube video just to see what happens. Try it out in your VR headset if you have one! For no particular reason… 😏  [Note: Oculus Quest users will want to launch the YouTube VR app, click on the magnifying glass then the microphone, and say the name of the video to find it on there! That seems to be the only way to get the true VR180 3D experience.  Just watching in the browser, even in full-screen VR180 mode, looks like crap!]

Okay.  So I’m vaccinated, have 3 COVID tests (before/during/after) arranged, and plenty of KN95 masks packed. Now fingers crossed UK doesn’t change their travel rules before I get there!  🤞😬