Breakfast of champions

Today I woke up old, and received this breakfast to commemorate the occasion.

The hike today really chewed us up and spat us out.  We set out from St. Bees at 9am this morning, collected our pebbles from the Irish Sea, and dragged ourselves across the Ennerdale Bridge finish line 15+mi later (plus thanks to deviations aka “Moe-cuts”) in small bloody clusters around 6:30 – 8pm.  It was gorgeous, worth the struggle, but hard work!  Only 15 more to go…

I’m left too tired for a full blog post.  Maybe that’s just the age?  But I will say that I was fueled today by the scores of birthday wishes.  Thank you!

You are bonkers!

Not a bad last day of being thirty-something.

Laura and Nigel fed us breakfast and sent us packing with a bag full of sandwiches and other goodies.  (Thanks for your endless hospitality, as I slowly fill up your guest register!)  Most of the drive north we had gorgeous blue skies and only a fleeting glimpse of Proper British Drizzle.  I introduced Ma to the music of Ingrid Serban & Forest Sun & Alisa Rose.  Given the nearly 300 miles from Bath to Carlisle, we even had time to discuss the oh so simple topic of religion and faith, where mutual respect and open minds allowed us to at least get a better understanding of our different perspectives.  We don’t waste time with idle conversation in this car!  No siree!

We reached Carlisle, filled the rental car (an Audi A4 Avant very reminiscent of my old A6), practiced a few right turns which always feel weird here, and then dropped the car at Hertz.  I think Ma’s had enough adventure already from my driving.  It’s an automatic, but it disengages the engine whenever we’re idle in traffic, and she thinks it’s stalling out every time.  So I suspect she was relieved to be a pedestrian once again.  (192 miles of it should fix that!)

We raced down the cobblestone street to the train station only to miss the penultimate train (carrying Moe and Eric we later learned) by only 5 minutes.  It was an hour’s wait for the last train of the day.  The countryside and especially the first views of the Irish Sea were stunning, and we determined via the map where we’ll be crossing those train tracks tomorrow.

When we arrived at St. Bees Station, Seth, Moe, and Eric were there to greet us at the platform and help with bags.  Stonehouse Farm is right next to the train station, but we spent only a minute in our room since dinner had already convened at Manor House, a short walk.  Fashionably late we were, but how nice to embrace our fellow Pebbles at last, all but Charles who will join at Kirkby Stephen, and of course Laura at Grosmont!

What decade of life would be complete without a polar bear swim in the (not technically) freezing Irish Sea, on a dare from one’s wife, Jessica, back home?  A local passerby walking his dog and wearing a winter coat saw our towels as we walked toward the beach and said, “Going swimming?  You are bonkers!”  Ma and Ealish documented, while Maurice, Eric, Tim and I disrobed to various extents, entered slowly, submerged, then exited post-haste.  Seth, fully clothed and dry, watched with amusement, “you idiots,” broadcast in all but words.  At least the relentless cold wind dried us off quickly!

The pebbles representing us Pebbles shall be selected in the morning, and begin their migration to the North Sea, first by way of Ennerdale Bridge.  Onward!

Stonehenge!

Where a man’s a man and the children dance to the pipes of Pan  -Spinal Tap

I can’t sleep on red-eye flights, but was still feeling fine when we arrived in Reykjavik a while after sunrise.  Probably because it was only my usual bedtime EDT.  We boarded our London flight half an hour later.  That one I slept through fine thanks to the broad daylight, which makes me drowsy, combined with actually being tired.

Maybe being tired contributed to my humiliation at the Hertz Gold counter when, after I complained that my car seemed to be locked, the nice Hertz lady pointed out that I should try the driver’s side door on the right side of the car.  I was off to a smashing start driving to Bath.

When I mentioned to Ma how Felicity had been twice to Stonehenge and Harry once on previous drives to visit Laura and Nigel in Bath, her face lit up.  Turns out Ma hasn’t been to Europe since she was 19, and she was excited about the prospect of visiting this popular heritage site.  And so we did.  It’s strange to say a 4000+ year old monument changed a lot since my last visit 4 years ago, but it did.  (There’s a new car park and visitor center a shuttle’s ride away.)

Where most of the driving to Stonehenge was on major motorways, the drive to Bath was on small country roads.  Ma was oohing and ahhing at every old building in every little village we passed, and she didn’t stop the entire way.  We listened to old Air Supply tunes and just absorbed the new scenery around every turn, not to mention a few dozen roundabouts.

After a lovely visit including a walk near Solsbury Hill, sunset brews, a delicious vegetable lasagna, “pudding” with clotted cream, and Nigel’s fancy lattes, Laura and I talked each other’s ears off until after midnight, as we do.  Tomorrow Ma and I will join the rest of the Pebbles, and Laura will meet us circa Grosmont for the big finish!

Here goes nothing!

20 minutes until we board our flight!

I drove up to New England from OBX yesterday, my second such road trip in a week.  Last week I drove up for the internment of my grandmother, who donated her body to the medical school when she died two years ago.  It was finally time to get closure with a ceremony, the best part of which is always spending time with my far-flung but lovely Nason-side family.  I also caught Bill Nighy’s broadway show, Skylight, on the way back with some of the NYC Nason contingent.  Awesome.  Gran, thanks for bringing us all together again.

The 12 hour drive yesterday passed by in a blink just like the previous two, thanks to audiobooks.  My friend Allie got me hooked on these, and while my eyes and reflexes are still on the road, my mind is off someplace else, and I arrive at my destination wishing I had another half hour of road to finish the book!  In this instance, it was Kicking and Dreaming: A Memoir by Ann and Nancy Wilson of Heart fame.  Also awesome.

My family in Massachusetts had dinner and a pre-birthday cake waiting for me, and a comfy bed, and I slept hard for a full 8 hours before waking up at 6am.  This, I predict, will happen every night of the hike.  But not tonight, which will be interrupted by a stop in sunny Iceland.  My driving on the wrong side of the road tomorrow can only be enhanced by a sleepless red-eye night.  Ma has no idea what adventure she’s really in for tomorrow!

Speaking of Ma, who’s about to board the flight with me, she described our activity today as “trying to squeeze 15lb. of s**t into a 5lb. bag.”  That basically sums it up, except scale it up to 100lb. of shit.  (Notice I’m only beeping out my mother’s swears.  I think it’s best to keep her saintly as long as possible on this trip!)  I brought way too much stuff, so I may be feasting on several pounds of fish jerky before Saturday morning just to get my pack liftable.  This should surprise no one who’s hiked with me before.

Tomorrow we’ll get as far as Laura’s house near Bath, and hopefully our fellow Pebbles are making similar progress toward St. Bees as we speak!  See you soon!!